Universal Wheel Hub - How To Mount Guide




Hello! I will hereby demonstrate how I mount my self-engineered universal wheel hubs,
including the mounting of the brake discs, brake calipers, and rims. As a bonus, I will
also detail how to lower a model – a popular customization.




The wheel hub system is something I’ve been using on all of my custom diecasts. For
the very first builds, I was still using hand-turned hubs made of alloy. However, as both
interest and demand grew, and seeing as I didn’t have CNC lathe, I began to craft them
from resin - together with a stainless steel bolt and washer.
At this point, I have reached version 3.0, which is a significant difference from the very
first ones I built. Everyone I know who uses this system is more than happy; the only
ones I know who are unhappy are those who are not using it.

Information on the wheel hubs:
• 8mm diameter
• About 7,5 - 7,7mm depth
• Made of PUR Resin

Consists of:
• 1 negative ring 8x4mm (to mount on the inside of the rim)
• 1 M2 4mm VA2 screw
• 1 M2 washer

All rims that I offer come with the negative mounting ring already on the rim, as they are
one with the rim.



The wheel hubs can be used universally, also with the brake discs. It is also possible to
use the brake discs from UliNowak with a 6mm inside diameter, which get pressed onto
the main part of the hub, laying between the main hub and the negative ring. One can also
use the brake discs that I offer in my shop, or others with an 8mm inside diameter, such as
those from AutoArt. They get glued on the outside top part of the main hub (the part which
still turns).




Here I’ll show you this system on a CSM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X. The model is
rather simply built up and it is easy to demonstrate on. At a later time I will also show how
to mount these hubs on models from AutoArt, GT-Spirit and UT-Models. As the systems
from these manufactures are very similar to those from other companies, I will make one
general instruction.

For this, you will need following:

• Base model (Evo X)
• A set of rims (here I will use my 19” Enkei RS05RR)
• Fitting brake discs and brake calipers (here I am using Uli Nowak 20mm front and 18mm
rear and my brake calipers type 5)
• A set of wheel hubs

Tools and materials:
• Superglue (Würth)
• Screwdriver (fl athead 2-3mm, fl athead 3-5mm, Torx T8)
• Small fi ne fi le
• Exacto knife or small box cutter knife
• 0.5mm - 1mm Polystyrene
• (A good eye)




As you read I will also answer frequently asked questions and if needed go into details.
They will be made clear with the well-known Q/A system:


1. Removing the Original Rims
As soon as you start here, there is often no turning back!!! Original hubs often break or
stretch out from doing this and do not allow you to put original parts back on.
This is often the same with all model manufactures. Some have a screw holding the rim
from the front (such as Kyosho), some have a screw from the back (such as Hotwheels),
while resin manufactures use a simple stick on metal stick connecting both rims, and
AutoArt uses either a plastic or a metal pin. The rims, which are not screwed in (excluding
resin models) are removed through leverage.
To achieve this leverage, you will have to remove the brake calipers on most models,
otherwise the brake disc might stick and damage some parts. Once the brake caliper is
removed, find the small gap between the rim and the axis. Once found get your small
flathead screw driver and pry the two parts in a leverage type motion apart.

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Using a small flathead screwdriver (about 2-3mm wide), somewhat loosen the wheel on
the hub, so that there will be enough space for your larger flathead screwdriver (about
3-5mm wide). Once you have a small gap, take the larger flathead screwdriver and push
the rim off the hub slowly with a lever-like motion. One can also try turning the rim at the
same time, to pull it off of the hub. If done right all parts should then pop off.

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2. Pre-Sanding and Adjustments
Now that the wheel and wheel hub are off, you must prepare the surface for the new hub.
It should look something like this:


(If there are still pins or other leftover parts, it would be good to remove / sand them at this
Should there only be a small surface as a base, with very little facing to mount on, then I
suggest to make and add a new polystyrene plate to the original surface. For this use a
0,5mm - 1mm polystyrene plate (more if needed). From personal experience, I use 1mm
for this and it is normally sufficient.
Make sure the new plate is large enough; often a 10x10mm square plate is enough.

Now you must plane your new surface, which I recommend to use a small fine file, sanding
block or similar tool. The important thing is that your tool is fl at, as you need a fl at surface
to match to the hub. I strongly advise against a dremel, as often then you can get little
waves or an odd shaped surface.

It is important that the new surface is fl at, as this is where the new hub is mounted on,
and it is important to have as mounting surface as smooth and flush as possible.

It should then look like this:


If you use the 6mm brake disc, as I am in my example, then you will need a rim with
the tires mounted, a wheel hub and your brake disc.

If you use the 8mm brake disc, then you will only need to grab your rim with the tire
mounted and a wheel hub. You will not need the brake disc yet.


Next, lay your wheel hub on your axis surface. Do NOT use any glue yet, leave all parts dry
and glue free for now!

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After you have gathered all of your parts, you will tentatively place the disc on the hub.
(This is important as it has a large role in the distances you make between the rim and the
fender. If you forget this, then there is a chance that your rim will stick out to far once you
are done, and we don’t want that happening.


Next, place your rim on the hub:


If you did everything right, it should then look like this:




As you can see, the wheel is now flat, straight and flush with the fender and sits correctly.

Q: What if the camber is off or the wheels stick out incorrectly?
A: Then you should look at the axis surface again exactly and maybe re-sand it. To get
     more camber all you’ll have to do is re-sand the axis in a slight angle towards the top, to
     create a new surface for the hubs. (Be careful and go at it slowly, it is easy to sand off too

Q: What if I want to lower the car extremely, not flush to the fender, but in a way that the
     rim doesn’t scrape in the wheel well?
A: Then you must sand out the inner side of the fender and, if needed, also the wheel well.
     A dremel helps well for doing that.



If you have it like this, where the wheel is standing very far out, then you should either
sand down the axis of the car or the back side of the wheel hub. You can sand down about
1mm from the wheel hub. Everything else must stay the same:


3. Mounting the Wheel Hubs
After you’re done double and triple checking and making sure that everything perfectly
fits, we move on to gluing.

VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!! Make sure that you are using the correct glue!
Hot glue isn’t enough here, nor any normal glue you got 5 years ago from your best
buddy’s uncle from his basement desk drawer. Neither is the normal super glue you find
in a discount supermarket hanging over the checkout desk for €1,49. That glue often
gasses out, makes the surrounding all white and unattractive. Besides, that “super glue”
promising to hold within seconds takes 10-15min… and really, who wants that these days?

If you want your wheels to hold securely, to spin as well or better than stock, to move
around your die cast without anything breaking, or even to relive your childhood
experience and play around with your models, then make sure you use the right glue
for the job! I use the super glue from “Würth”, you can get their glue in a small drip
bottle, or with a brush attachment. They are both great and get the job done, just have
different application methods. Also with this glue, it won’t be necessary to hold your parts
for 5-10min. Once applied, it will be mounted within seconds and stick on there as if it was
one with the part.

Q: What if I don’t have a local Würth shop, or I can’t buy there because I’m not a registered
A: You can also buy this glue online; there are a few sellers on Amazon, for example.

Q: What if I can’t handle the glue or use it correctly?
A: Then I suggest to find a new hobby.

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After you have obtained the glue, we will continue to preparing for gluing the hubs. To
achieve the best contact and hold between the hubs and axis surfaces, we will roughen up
the faces of both parts. This will be the rear side of your hub and the surface of your axis
where the hub will mount on. For this you can either use a fine sandpaper, the tip of
a cutter blade or the tip of an Exacto knife blade.
It should then look like this:


Now do the same on the back of the hub:


Next, you lay the hub in the ring of your rim. Before continuing, check everything again
and make sure that everything actually fits.

Before applying any glue, I would recommend that you make a few marks on your axis, so
you know the places to apply the glue. This doesn’t have to be exact, but a rough marking
will be useful so you know where to move it to later on.
As soon as your hub is laying in your rim, in the ring, you get your glue and spread a good
amount on the surface of the hub - only on the surface that will connect with the axis of the
car. Do not use too much, we don’t want it running down the hub, apply just enough.


I lay down all parts so that the edge of the hub, which is still in the ring of the rim, touches
the axis in such a way that I can already position it roughly, yet doesn’t have any surface
contact between both surfaces. Once there, I then let the rim slowly down with the hub,
and within the next 3-5 seconds quickly position it in the proper spot I want, where it will
then stay.


As soon as your rim is lying fl at, you should take a finger and press down in the center of
the rim softly. Apply light pressure for about 35-50 seconds, allowing the glue to cure, and
the part to remain in place. Afterwards, remove the rim (which shouldn’t be stuck on the
hub) and let the glue sink into the material for a few minutes. If you have made it this far
flawlessly, then you can use these few minutes to pat yourself on the shoulder and admire
the work you’ve done.

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Once done, it looks like this:



A quick test shows that everything was done right.



 4. Brake Disc
With the help of the Würth glue, we will set two (2) drops / spots of glue on the surface
where the brake disc will lay on (on the step of the main part on the hub).



Take the disc and lay it on the surface that you just added the glue to. With 2 fingers across
from each other, evenly press down on the disc, so that it lays down completely flat.

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It is also very important not to use too much glue here, as it can easily run down and
between both hub parts, making them glue together which would result in you losing the
ability to have the wheels spin.


Q: What if I wasn’t paying attention, and accidentally glued the wrong disc on the hub?
A: No problem! Just swap the main part of the hub with the correct one. For this remove
the center screw and place the correct one on the hub, and screw it tight again. Not to
tight, as you still want it to spin smoothly.

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5. Brake Calipers
Now we come to the part which many of you are not in the mood to do, but is still quite
important to do.
Here I am using TK type 5 brake calipers.



Many brake calipers are sold for universal use, which means that most calipers will need
to be modified to fit your needs. This is the case with this modification as well. These are
too long and stand out to far from the brake disc.
So what can one do?
Modify it!

As an example, I will show here how to shorten it and build a new end piece for mounting:

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You can now still paint the new parts black, so that it looks nice and fades into the
underbody. But I didn’t do that here, as I’m only demonstrating how this is done. At
this point you can and should apply the desired company brand decals to the calipers.

6. Mounting the Rims
This is the last step in this instruction.
When everything fits and you’ve checked your fit 20 times, we will finally glue the rims to
the hubs!
Please note that this isn’t a requirement. I know that there are people that often like to
swap rims, but if you want the 100% perfect fit and perfect wheel spin, then I advise to glue
the rim onto the hub.
For that you can do following:
With the Würth glue, in one smooth application, completely add a stroke of glue once
around the hub surface, where the hub meets the ring. Add enough that you see it, but not
so much that it runs down and ruins the brakes.


Now for about 50-70 seconds hold down the rim in the center with the help of one (1)
finger. Make sure to only press in the center, as you want the rim fl at on the hub and
brake disc. If you hold it somewhere else that could make it uneven and not sit correctly.
Once you’ve done that, let it sit for a few minutes to let the glue settle before you set the
model on the rims and put pressure on the hubs.

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The set of wheel hubs, as shown at the beginning of the guide, with 4 separate rings, can
be purchased from me. The rings are included in a set of hubs, however, you can order just
the rings or just the hubs if you wish. The separate rings are useful if you want to mount
rims from other manufacturers, which only have a flat surface on the rear side of the rim,
such as those from Uli Nowak. To do so, just glue the ring in the center of the inlay, to have
the same results as show in this guide.
Disclaimer: This guide is not intended for promotional or commercial use for the named
companies. These names are only being given for references, and to help out those who
share the hobby. I aim to help others get their wheels mounted with better quality and to
bring a stop to the wheels glued on with the constant handbrake application.
I hope that you found my guide informative and helpful.
If there are any questions or you would like to order a set of hubs or other parts, write me
a message either on Facebook or send me an email.


Pictures and text are copyrighted.
© TK-Diecast